A prominent figure in Bhutanese culture is named Drukpa Kunley, otherwise known as the Divine Madman. There are a series of stories, fact and fiction, surrounding this cultural icon.

Prior to the sixteenth century, shamanistic beliefs and practices dominated the Bhutanese ideology. It was believed that deities inhabited and controlled natural forces like rivers, cliffs, and lakes. Drukpa Kunley entered the scene from Tibet and demonstrated his mystical powers by expelling these dark forces. His heroism is unique, however, because his methods challenged the conventional sacred methods of the time. In fact, many of the legends surrounding him incite humor and vulgarity as a type of shock therapy in his divine teachings.

One of the most fascinating legends is about the creation of one of the native species here, the Takin. When the pilgrimage from Tibet led Drukpa Kunley to Bhutan, the people doubted his divinity and asked for proof of his spiritual power. To prove himself, he waited until after a shared supper, where he and his hosts ate goat and beef. He then assembled the head of the goat with the body of the cow, and slapped the carcass and told it to go feed. Today this odd mammal is recognizable as the national animal of Bhutan.

Another Kunley legend relates to all the rather large and intricate paintings of phalluses that adorn buildings and fill souvenir shops. These were a fairly unavoidable observation throughout our travel – they are a sort of esoteric symbol meant to represent the Divine Madman and his teachings.

As mentioned previously, Drukpa Kunley had an unorthodox method of teaching and many of the legends regarding his non-monastic enlightenment include subduing demons with his erect organ and giving people blessings in the form of intercourse. Symbolic images of phalluses now represent protection from evil spirits, fertility, and remind devotees to live a life firmly bound in spirituality and openness.

 

 

The Crane Festival in Phobjikha Valley was a very colorful visual treat. The first group of monks came out wearing traditional animal masks considered highly sacred. Some had dear horns, others looked like tigers, some were wild boars, and others were representations of fantastic animals like Garuda (the bird god) .

Last week we had a lecture with Dr. Francoise Pommaret, a well-know French scholar who has lived in Bhutan for over 30 years, and she explained that the purpose of the imposing animal-like look is to deter evil spirits and, thus, protect temples, homes, and people. In these higher mountain regions, the Bhutanese believe that local deities inhabit the rivers, forests and winds. The deities can have both a benevolent and malevolent side; some are represented as demons, sometimes as demoness. Similar, to the four faced Tara, they can be creators or destroyers, therefore they must be appeased with offerings such as songs and dances. The sacred numbers used in painterly art and architectures of most temples are also repeated in the number of dancers and the colors they wear. I learned that the colors worn represent the elements: blue for water, green for earth, red for fire, white is wind, and gold is the sacred. The thunderous drumming is also meant to scare evil spirits and to please the divine.

The Crane dance, although quite old, became a part of the newly-established crane festival which was introduced recently, about 10 years ago. The black cranes arrive to Bhutan with the fall season, leaving the freezing temperature of Tibet and spending the winter months in the warmer wetlands of the Phobjikha Valley. The locals describe them as “gracious, beautiful and harmless”.

They are a protected species and their arrival is considered auspicious. Every year on 11/11 Bhutanese and  chillips (foreigners) get together at Gangtey Goempa and enjoy the visual feast of dancers, vendors, and monks in ceremonial dress jumping as high as only athletes can do. Literally, their legs and trunks touching each other in mid air during the traditional dances while landing graciously and continuing to twirl, as if no effort was spent. The crane dance is a series of vignettes mimicking the behavior of black cranes, whether feeding, courting or mating.

As we exited the main square of the festival, we are again in long lines of colorful bazaars to entice tourists to shop for souvenirs. I asked myself, many times in our multiple tours: “What is the price of modernization and fast progress for Bhutan?”

Progress has certainly increased local wealth and creates a somewhat easier life with electricity and roads, and cellular connection. Bhutan is a state that only started its process of modernization only in the 60’s. In many ways, it is an opportunity to experience life differently because if this. Right now, priority goes to basic infrastructure, like building roads, or making sure everyone even in remote areas has electricity and health care.

My prior expectation of Bhutan as a mythical Shangri-La has now met with are a different reality. However, I need to remind myself to polish my lens of perception and judgment; that there is much I do not yet understand about the pressures of modernity. I remind myself also that – especially in western Countries – we are all fascinated by the delusional ‘myth of progress’ and that much mental and physical malaise comes along with it. Another lecturer, Dr. Karma Phuntsho pointed out that Bhutanese policy is not focused on GDP but rather on keeping in mind the Gross National Happiness of Bhutan. This is clearly stated in the four pillars and nine domains of the GNH development philosophy, not just as an idea but as a planned development strategy.

Dr. Karma also briefly touched on some of the youth problems created by the speed of modernization: with movement from agricultural lands to urban life, many youths have less ability to communicate or interact with their grandparents, which creates a cultural loss; and with the use of Internet comes great western influence, causing some to feel compelled to leave well-known traditional beliefs for unknown modern lifeways.

I ponder on all these points while taking a long gentle hike along the forests and fields of this beautiful valley, enjoying the smell of pines and fall leaves. Peaceful cows are grazing in the fields. I realize, after all, cows and cranes have no problem sharing  space; that along with cows much of the local economy is also based on potato patches and the local farmers have to integrate the past agricultural tradition with contemporary tourism and so called “Progress” and the cranes are a big attraction!

As I ponder the dilemmas of accepting progress and yet maintaining sustainable agriculture ,  a theme appears in my inner mind: “I think I will write about Cranes, Cows and the Holy crap used as organic fertilizer..!!”

Suddenly, I see how in Bhutan there is still a healthy integration of all of these social-ecological-economic systems. I see it in Phobjikha, I see it at the black crane festival. I see that the people and landscape are in constant dynamic evolution and I console myself with the thought of Bhutan’s resilient traditions in the face of modern pressures.

The author’s plane touched down softly in Bangkok at nearly midnight. It was bound from Tokyo, Japan. He breathed a sigh of relief… This was where he and his wife, also a Sustainability student, would meet the rest of the CMC study group bound for Paro, Bhutan in little more than 2 days.

Despite being over 7 hours long, the on-time flight, on Japanese carrier ANA, had been relaxing due to the meticulous care Japanese routinely exhibit in all their endeavors, and the composed demeanor of Japanese travelers.

Having lived in Mexico, a developing nation, the author realized the 2,864 mile distance from Tokyo to Bangkok had not only been physical, but cultural as well.

Bangkok’s airport is a major Asian hub serving nearby countries including India, Nepal, Bangladesh, Singapore, Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam, and the Chinese giant to the North. Despite this, and the airport’s massive modern structure, the author knew he had taken a step back in time…

This feeling was confirmed as he arrived at the immigration counter where in bold letters was a sign reading “No Tipping Officials”. Refreshingly, both immigration and customs representatives greeted him and his spouse with a smile, the procedure taking only minutes.

In contrast to the impeccable taxis with white-gloved drivers the couple had left in Japan, the cab in which they covered the 20 mile journey to their hotel on the shores of Bangkok’s main urban river, the Chao Phraya, was in much need of repair. The driver, however, smiled warmly when presented with a modest gratuity by US standards, and left the travelers at the door of their hotel in the Yai district, to begin exploring a city of approximately 12 million people, and an intriguing tapestry of mixed-neighborhoods (socio-economic), noted on their approach to the selected “base-camp”.

Thai currency is the Baht which is worth approximately 0.03 US dollars per 1 Baht, a fact that denotes high inflation rates within certain development moments of Thailand’s history, and is typical of global south  nations that devalue their currencies to mitigate the costs of exterior Government debt. Interestingly, tradingeconomics.com, places Thailand’s current official inflation at 0.8% with a ten year maximum of 8.54%. Official rates are however often significantly lower than real rates indexed to generalized purchasing power.

Tangibly, the travelers quickly confirmed what had been read prior to the trip: Thailand is markedly inexpensive to individuals coming from hard currencies like the Euro, US Dollar, Japanese Yen, Swiss Franc, or even the increasingly significant Renminbi/Yuan (China).

With an ambitious pre-researched discovery agenda, and relatively little time available, the couple decided that in light of low prices, a private guide from an accredited agency might be the best way to maximize their Bangkok sojourn.

Thus began their adventure: Part 1 was an hour-long journey along tributaries of the Chao Phraya main waterway and transportation thoroughfare. On side canals, so numerous and complex that small dams had to be constructed to make them navigable vis-à-vis the main river, lavish homes sat in apparent harmony beside small temples and crumbling shacks whose wooden pillars protruding into the river, many having given way to dry-rot, making the structures lean perilously before hasty repairs gave them a modicum of stability at their newfound equilibrium points.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As in Venice, each canal serves as a service outlet. Trash was collected, goods delivered and people moved. It was a fascinating example of urban adaptation, and a troubling display of plastic and other discarded items, whose prelude the couple had noticed from their first contact with the main canal.

Once back on land, the travelers began discovering stunning monuments including the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, celebrating the three seasons of Thailand (Summer, Rainy and Winter), an exterior view of the Royal Grand Palace (former royal residence, currently only used by the King on special festivities), the Wat Pho Reclining Buddha Temple, a vast indoor-space in which lies a 150 ft. long gilded Buddha statue preparing to be delivered by a definitive death to eternal peace after having attained enlightenment.

Though Thailand has no official religion, if one excludes the fact that the King must be Buddhist, approximately 95% of the population embraces Buddhism, Theravada being the predominant branch distinguished by its conservative views. With this premise, the author’s small group set out to discover the imposing Wat Arun temple, particular for acknowledging the significant influences of Hinduism in Thai’s expression of Buddhism. Concretely, the Wat Arun temple draws both inspiration and its name from the Hindu god Aruna, frequently personified as radiations of the rising sun.

Seeking to experience the culturally rich Yai district to its fullest in the short available time, another element incorporated in the visits was the Pakklong Taladd flower market, reputed to be the third largest in the world. An orderly and well displayed explosion of color (similar to more chaotic Latin-American markets of this genre). Here, the author noted a use of plastic bags and coverings so extensive, that its dissonance to the sustainability theme of the trip hurt his eyes.

Perhaps beyond the scope of this short piece, the travelers explored less traditional elements including Bangkok’s modern 980ft. cable-style Rama VIII Bridge, significant for two reasons; first the structure built between 1999 and 2002 to better communicate shores of the Chao Phraya river is a source of pride to locals. Second, it was a Chinese State construction enterprise that built the structure, evidently following many of the precepts set forth by Pier Luigi Nervi (Rome – Italy) in the 1960’s…

Photograph 6

The author and his wife also had a chance to comment on the extravagance of the River City Shopping Complex at the Si Phraya pier. The modern complex with glittering lights features many of the most recognized apparel names in the world. High end shops, arts and prime antiques, complete the picture of a city where the affluent evidently have vast purchasing power, while their neighbors (remembering the mixed urban tapestry) have little. Another classic sign of developing nations and one more and more common in those nations more developed as well.

Complementary aspects of the exploration included sampling of local foods dominated by sticky and/or fried rices (an Asian staple), stir-fried vegetables of varied textures, types, and colors, pork & fish dishes, an abundance of tropical fruits, and curious desserts not compatible with the author’s Western palate.

The couple also experienced the “PG” version (not the only offering)  of Thai baths & massages, discovering muscles neither knew they had. An intricate, ritualistic, 3+hour experience involving ingestion of cleansing/hydrating beverages, bathing, exfoliation, steaming, therapeutic massage and skin hydration oils – an experience the author highly recommends.

Bangkok, aside from being the nation’s capital and full of the cultural uniqueness herein described, is also a mecca of cheap drugs, rampant prostitution, and human trafficking. Fortunately, a bit of caution, and a selection of areas/hours where/when one might roam, are all that is required to ensure a safe trip among friendly residents eager to be welcoming.

In short, the author was fascinated by this enigmatic, colorful and complex country of which he and his spouse only had a chance to explore the very basics despite a meticulous pre-travel preparation to maximize exposure and understanding. They have vowed to return!

***

Over the 20 days we spent in Bhutan, in many of our varied lectures the issue of waste management and plastics came up as a question from CMC’s sustainability-minded students. We learned that with rapid development and modernization (out of the medieval age only about 60 years ago) come challenges and infrastructure issues that need to be solved. With plastics, specifically, Bhutan faces the same challenges we all do globally: What to do with the plastic waste?

Although they have not fully answered this question or solved the plastic waste problem in their country, I did notice some creative ways the Bhutanese are using their plastic waste. On one of our drives, I asked Dr. Mercedes Quesada-Embid to recall which country it was that she had introduced us to in class, that was utilizing plastic bottles filled with water to upcycle plastic bottles and provide light in homes (Liter of Light). She told us it was the Philippines. We discussed how a program like that may be a great way to utilize some of the plastics in Bhutan. Then I saw it! And snapped the picture below (through the window of our moving vehicle) – it was of a plastic bottle covering a light bulb alongside the road in some areas to light the road at night. Although distinct from the Philippines in its application, it made me realize that plastic upcycling was already being utilized in some ways here.

Later, at the Choki Traditional Arts School I saw more creative and inspiring plastic upcycling. Here, the artists turned plastics into indoor planters, and artistically transformed old tires into beautiful outdoor planters too.

Even in Paro, on our hike to Tiger’s Nest Monastery, we saw how the Bhutanese upcycled plastics into their deeply spiritual and traditional culture by turning plastics into prayer wheels.

Keeping Bhutan free of plastic waste seems to be an important value for the Bhutanese. Ultimately, it takes each individual person’s cooperation and respect to make it happen.

Down the windy, twisty, road we go. A sheer drop on one side, and mountain side on the other. We turn around on an almost ninety degree turn and come face to face with another car. Quick maneuvering and we have somehow fit a van, a car, and a meandering cow onto a road the size of about one and half cars. We continue our trek down the mountain.

Mercedes, our Sustainability professor, sits one row ahead of me, goofy glasses on with liquid in the insides of the frame. This odd, and highly fashionable, contraption helps with motion sickness, which everyone is feeling on this road, even the most travel-hardy traveler.

The wind blows through the cabin of the van, the air is cold, everyone is bundled in multiple layers. The cold air is a necessity, we all need it to help keep any motion sickness down. The roads look as though the meandering cows themselves had created it. More cows wonder on the side of the road, along with the occasional dog. Slowly we make our way to our home stays.

Finally our wonderful driver has managed to not only get us to our home stays, but he has also gotten us there safe and sound. Even on the roads that are one and half cars wide. Slowly, with limbs stiffened from sitting for so long, we exit the van.

The houses all around us are big. They are pretty too. White on the outside, accompanied by dark woo beams. The homes are all built out of wood. Three rambunctious boys soon greet us. They run around, laughing and shouting at each other. Everyone starts to unload their backpacks and collect into their home stay groups.

My group gathers. It is a total of six people. Soon after gathering, our guide takes us to our home stay. We climb a latter over the fence. Then a pathway to the stairs. We pass a cow, she barely acknowledges our presence before she goes back to munching on some grass. The grass is green and short. Soon we reach the stairs. The stairs aren’t conventional stairs, two long boards with smaller footholds. They are worn. Easy to see that many feet had come up and down these stairs. The three boys race past us, their bare feet slapping against the wood as they run up to the second level. Laughter follows in their wake.

The second level has a large porch, five pairs of shoes sit neatly by the door. The three boys are all washing their hands, which had become coated in mud. They all giggle as they shove each other around trying to gain access to the bar of soap and the water. We all take our shoes off before entering the house, per the Bhutanese custom.

The front door is dark wood, and not very large. No doorknob is present on the door either. The parents greet us at the front door – all happy smiling faces. Their three sons are still giggling outside as they wash their hands. The mother of the house and our guide start to talk. Soon we are all introducing ourselves. The family doesn’t speak much English, although they all understand key phrases. Welcoming us in, they have us all set our stuff down in the living room.

The main room, which is the living room, has a wood stove in the center. Foam mats cover the floor, and cabinets on two of the four walls. A large array of blankets and sleeping mats are neatly rolled up in a small section of the room. But other than those things, the floor of the room is free. We are all encouraged to sit on the foam mats on the floor. They are thin, but comfortable. Soon we are all offered tea and puffed rice. This tea is the tea that everyone puts the puffed rice into. Some cookies are also offered to us. They are delicious with the tea and puffed rice.

My group and I all talk amongst each other, playing with the boys as much as we could. The heat of the fireplace warms the room. It’s nice to have a place to sit that is warm and not be  on a bus. The room is warm and full of action. We all interact with the family to the best of our ability, our guide Bhuwan (Boo-wan) translating for us as we ask the family questions.

Soon dinner is ready. Cheesy spicy potatoes, spicy meat, and rice is the main meal. It is delicious. Everything here is delicious. We continue to talk and laugh as we eat. The mother and father of the house sit down last after serving their three boys.

As the night winds down we all go to our room. All six of us are sleeping in the altar room. Per custom, as guests, we are given the best room in the home and our heads are turned to the altar, feet towards the wall. After getting ready for bed we all climb underneath the three layers of thick yak wool blankets. It’s freezing at first, but the blankets slowly warm us.

The altar room is full of color, pictures on the walls of Buddhas and the windows all along the wall that our feet are facing. The altar is full of color, and various offerings that they have made throughout the day. Mostly wafer cookies are the offering. It’s an honor to be placed in their altar room. Despite us all being different ages, all 5 women giggle and laugh as we talk, only our heads sticking out of the blankets. I laugh as two of the girls talk about their bus ride. They talk about their bumpy ride and how one of them started to get motion sickness.

It’s dark out, and soon the lights go off. Still we continue to talk. Bhuwan has joined us again, and is laughing and talking with us from his own bed. We each have our own twin sized mattress. All six are on the floor, and we fit wall to wall. Its around 10 at night, and despite being tired from the travel we all continue to talk and enjoy each other’s company. Eventually we start to fall asleep. Tomorrow is the Black Neck Crane Festival.

Slowly we all slip into a deep slumber.

Bhutan is famous for its for its cheesy dishes. The most well known Bhutanese dish being Ema Datshi: Ema= Chilli’s, Datshi= cheese. Other Bhutanese cheesy dishes include Kewa Datshi (potatoes and cheese), Shamu Datshi (mushrooms and cheese), Metokopi Datshi (cauliflower and cheese), and Saag Datshi (spinach and cheese). One of these staples that we have had for nearly every meal on our journey is the Kewa Datshi.

We had the pleasure of meeting the talented and knowledgeable Bhutanese chef, Aum Kezang, who has made it her mission to preserve the ancient Bhutanese culinary wisdom. She learned from her Grandmother as well as by traveling the country during her service as one of the first women police officers. Our group of CMC students and professors were invited to her restaurant to witness her techniques of preservation of certain foods and spices. This included, drying plants and herbs along with fermenting vegetables and grains. She then demonstrated to us how to cook some traditional Bhutanese dishes including Kewu Datshi.

In a pot add:

• 6-9 thinly sliced potatoes
• 1-2 sliced onions
• 2-3 sliced tomatoes
• 1 cup of butter
• 3/4 cup of water
• approximately 2 tablespoons of salt
• Chile powder to taste (optional)
• Optional to add other veggies (cauliflower, spinach, mushrooms)

Cover and bring ingredients to a boil, stirring and mixing often until potatoes are fully cooked. When potatoes are cooked to satisfaction turn off the heat and add:

• 1/2 cup- 3/4 cup cheese (Aum Kezang used fermented cheese but really any cheese that you choose will do!)

Sprinkle your choice of cheese in a thin layer on top and cover the dish again so that the cheese melts into everything! Serve and enjoy!!